Saturday, July 14, 2012

Somalia so far...

After just more than seven months here, I can hardly say that I have grasped the major issues this country is facing, but this is what I think about what I have observed so far...

Even though I feel that the issues that Somalis are facing here are basic to human beings everywhere, the situation is complex, to say the least. So far, in the areas I have visited, and from the various people I have spoken with, it seems that two of the major issues (and sources of conflict) are lack of water and lack of land. This is not surprising given the on-going drought in this mainly pastoral land, where livestock is one of its main exports. As a result, the drought affects everything from market prices to clan conflicts.

Tribalism is one of the main issues that is a part of every conflict here, it seems. People here identify themselves first with their clan. Then their sub-clan, sub-sub-clan, and on down...Apparently, asking "where are you from?" is code for "what clan do you belong to?"

In Mali, your family name told what ethnicity you were, what region you were from, and even which religion you were, depending. Here, it seems that your name is irrelevant as far as describing anything about you, except your religion. This is partially because if you meet an Abdi Rahman, Mohamud, or Fatima here; there are 10 more people with one of those exact names within spitting distance and surnames don't appear to really exist anymore.

When I look at Somalis, I see what they have in common - a language, a culture, a religion, food, etc.... They even look alike.  The only recognizable difference that one might be able to point to (though I cannot because I don't speak Somali) are regional accents, which again bring everyone back to the question "which clan do you belong to?"

Of course, I am an outsider. I will never be able to fully understand the fierce loyalty that Somalis have to their respective clans. I won't ever feel the painful gut reaction that Somalilanders feel when people refer to Somalia - and are speaking about Somaliland. I didn't survive a siege on my city or have to flee from it because someone from another clan sent people to bomb it.

However, maybe that is exactly the point. Even though there are many things Somalis and Somalilanders have in common, it may be that not validating their feelings (or attempting to understand them) is why we can't help to change them.

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